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The Plan

We are unsure whether we will be leaving Katmandu by train or plane.  We do know that our first stop in India will be Delhi, sometime near November 25,1998.  After a week in Delhi we will travel south, about an hour, to Agra the home of the breathtaking Taj Mahal.  Our trip will continue south towards the India's west coast.  We will see the magnificent temples of Jaipur and Udaipur, the big city madness of Bombay, the plush beautiful beaches of Goa, and the high tech "Silicon Valley" of India, Bangalore. It will be nearly New Year's eve and we plan to attend a ten day Indian dance and music festival in Madras near the tip of India. We will spend the next few weeks traveling north up the east coast and back into Nepal. We plan to fly from Katmandu to Bangkok, Thailand around January 31, 1999.
What really happened: As the saying goes, "The best laid plans..."

The journey continues here on arrival from Nepal. 
December 5-7, 1998 — The Homy Guest House.
"Rowing back in the dark, while the funeral pyres burned on the holy burning ghats and bells rang ominously in the distance..."

December 8, 1998 —  WHAT?????
"we watched the sunset glimmer off of the three immense domes and the gargantuan, red stone, main gate..."

From Agra to Delhi
December 9, 1998 —  Getting around with an Auto Rickshaw.
"They pulled out a small monkey wrench and proceeded to beat the lock into submission..."

The Outsider's Scoop
December 15, 1998 — Josh Friberg lays it on thick.
"I realized that I had met a couple of real champions..."

December 11-17, 1998 — And counting.
"No matter what we do, we can't seem to get out of here..."

December 17-20, 1998 - The boys are propositioned.
"We were quickly ushered into the owner's office where we were offered -----"

December 20-23, 1998 - A needed relief from the road???
"we made a 90 degree turn and headed off in a new direction!"

December 23-26, 1998 - The land of sand (and nuclear waste).
"Several people informed us that two days on a camel would be a day and a half too much..."

Camel Trek
December 26-31
, 1998 - The boys wander in the desert for a week.
Part I  "picking the flesh off of our half-naked bloated bodies..."
  Part II "we kept thinking they would pull up at any moment and blast us"
  Part III "What causes wars?"
  Part IV "Learning Hindi the hard way"
  Part V  New Year's Eve: "wood until the stroke of midnight"

January 1-2, 1999 — Leaving the sand.
"The deep tans we thought we had acquired were 1\4 dirt, 1\4 sandy residue, 1\4 color, and 1\4 smoke..."

January 1-2, 1999 — Trapped
"Almost all the buildings are painted blue, which we were told deters mosquitoes?!"

January 5-9, 1999 — The New York of India.
"maybe they aren't lamb-burgers after all?"

Mumbai to Goa
January 9-15, 1999 — Jacksonville Jaguars vs. the New York Jets.
"trying to tan our milky white bodies"

Ernakulam and Cochin
January 16-17, 1999 — The boys find out where a Jewish King swims.
"the otherwise nine-hour full-length version"

The Backwaters
January 18-21, 1999 - A house boat tour through the southern tip of India.

Part I  "Taking this as a sign"
Part II "thousands of camels, cows, pigs, goats and dogs"

Trivandrum and Kankaykumari
January 21-22, 1999 — Is sunrise at 5:30 AM worthwhile?
"the Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea"

Madras to Bangalore
January 23-29, 1999 — Mike Schloff 's 30th birthday and hanging jaws.
"all you can eat thali"

Madras Again
January 30 - February 2, 1999 — Sitars and Dulgas abound.
"The Great Bombay Circus"

February 3, 1999 — A beautiful lobby with burlap sacks in the room.
"much cheaper and nicer"

February 4, 1999 — The Outsider's Inside or Josh Friberg lays it on again.
"No glass blowing in Faizabad!"

Back to Nepal
February 5, 1999 — At the end of two months it's a long ride back.
"The Indian adventure was (all together now…) FINIS!!!"

We return briefly to Nepal to catch our flight to Thailand.